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I can see why — it’s a handsome dish with meaty cylinders of grilled octopus paired with crisped pieces of potato in a garlicky mayo.The cornbread arrives in a cast-iron pan, is firm enough to slice neatly and eat in-hand, yet sports a texture so delightfully loose and crumbly that you may worry — needlessly — that it will fall apart.While I'd never trade these for one of the gorgeously fragrant tamales served at places like Bombon Cafe (138 S.Ashland Ave.), they are a fascinating addition to the scene.It's based on the Jim Shoe sandwich, a strange Chicago specialty, in which gyro meat, corned beef and roast beef join an unholy alliance with mustard, gyro sauce and giardiniera.It's a feast of salt, heat and creaminess, which sums up drunk food just about perfectly. The handsome wood bar takes up nearly half the space, while all the tables are huddled in one corner.A curving window wall in the bar takes in the action at the corner of Kinzie and Clark streets — a perfect perch for people watching during the holiday season.65 W.

From the exuberantly ornate dining room to the best dishes on the menu, the West Loop restaurant delights in serving up layers upon layers of style. A beet hummus kicked off a recent meal with sparks of citrus zest and dusky notes of clove, offset by the crunch of fried chickpeas and the salty tang of blue cheese.

You can grab them at grocery stores, order them at an untold number of Mexican restaurants and pick them up by the dozen from vendors on select street corners.

You can also do nothing but nurse a beer at some North Side watering holes and wait for the red-cooler-toting Tamale Guy to spring through the door, like Santa for the seriously sauced.

The regular red hot tamales () come three to an order and are astoundingly tender, all without a trace of grittiness.

Each morsel is also soaked in a spicy red tomato and chile broth, making them so soft you can easily spread them on the crackers served on the side.

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